FAQs

If you are experiencing grinding or squeaking noises from your drive belt, it may be time to replace your drive belt tensioner. Most people know that belts are maintenance items and eventually have to be replaced, but many don’t know the spring-loaded automatic tensioner that holds the belt tight is also a wear item. Having the correct belt tension is critical.

Things to look for when inspecting the belt tensioner:

• Rust or corrosion can jam the tensioner housing and prevent it from rotating freely. A frozen tensioner cannot maintain proper belt tension.
• Dirt or mud jammed in the tensioner housing.
• A loose or worn pivot arm can allow unwanted movement and results in belt noise and misalignment.
• A worn bushing in the tensioner pulley can cause vibrations and noise.
• A weak or broken spring inside the tensioner can’t maintain proper tension and the belt will slip. Springs lose tension over time from exposure to heat.
• Cracks or damage to the tensioner housing or pulley arm may prevent it from rotating smoothly and maintaining proper belt tension.

To inspect the tensioner, check the movement of the tensioner arm with the engine off. Use a socket with a long handle ratchet or breaker bar on the tensioner pulley center bolt to rotate the tensioner. There are no specifications for measuring the amount of resistance offered by the tensioner spring, but if the tensioner offers little resistance, it may indicate a weak or broken spring. If it fails to move at all, the tensioner is jammed and needs to be replaced.

Pulley alignment should also be checked to make sure there isn’t a mounting problem in the belt-drive system. It can be checked by placing a straight edge against the pulleys or with a special laser alignment tool designed for this purpose.

Instructions for Both Right and Left Hand Installation

Refer to RH and LH Fitting Pictures for Additional Fitting Information

This drive motor kit uses a Bonfiglioli brand track drive motor, similar to the motors currently in production on the newer CNH track loaders. This is a great alternative to the hard-to-repair and expensive Rexroth motor.

Note: Final drive motors are mounted so that the relief notch is pointed down towards the ground to allow debris to drop off. This notch will be at a 4 or 8 o’clock position depending on whether you are mounting right or left side. Right and Left side is specified when sitting in the operator’s seat.

While removing your old drive motor, you will want to remove the clamps that hold the hydraulic lines in place near where they enter the body of the machine. This will allow movement for the hydraulic lines when installing your new motor. The hydraulic lines will not be in the same exact position as before, therefore, will need some play. Please make sure all lines and hoses are re-secured after the motor is installed.

After the old motor has been removed, insert the new motor into the mount. There may be a need for some grinding to remove any casting flash. At this point, you will need to rotate or index the motor so the notch is either at a 4 or 8 o’clock position for the hydraulic lines to fit properly.

For left-hand installation: Start with the notch pointing at the ground, viewed from sprocket side of the drive, and rotate clockwise (notch approximately 8 o’clock position) until you are able to install the fittings and line up with the hydraulic lines to fit properly.

For right-hand installation: Start with the notch pointing at the ground, viewed from sprocket side of the drive, and rotate counter-clockwise (notch approximately 8 o’clock position) until you are able to install the fittings and line up with the hydraulic lines properly. Important: Pay particular attention to the indexing and brake fittings on this side since it will be hard-lined directly to the drive without the use of a hose.

Additional information: Depending on the machine, the installer may find it useful to adjust the 2 large loop fittings to accommodate that particular machine.

Left-Hand Fittings

*Important* This fitting kit is for both right and left sides and will have some different parts for each side. These are the fittings needed to install the left-hand motor.

Right-Hand Fittings

*Important* This fitting kit is for both right and left sides and will have some different parts for each side. These are the fittings needed to install the right-hand motor.

Question: The center section of my pump has large crack the whole width of the section causing it to leak severely. Is this a common failure trait of these pumps or do I have an odd failure? Bought machine 2 months ago from Dealer in Georgia. Machine now in Pittsburgh. Climate change have anything to do with it? It has been a “warm weather” machine its whole life. Old fluid looks ok (aka no signs of water infiltration). Just curious. Don’t want a repeat failure.

Answer: There are three main causes of a large crack through the center body of a gear pump.

1. Once the bushings wear out, the gears can cut into the sides of the body and grab a sliver of aluminum. This forces the gears apart and breaks the body. It is good to flush the system to make sure the aluminum slivers are no longer in it.

2. If there are large particles in the oil (such as a small bearing ball, or small metal pieces, perhaps left over from another failure or a previous repair) it will also force these gears apart and crack the housing. Flushing the system will prevent this from happening again. We have also seen a rag left in the suction hose during installation getting run through the pump and causing this failure.

3. Overpressure will also cause the center housing to break. The most often happens when someone adjusts the relief valve setting too high to try to make up for low pressure caused by a weak pump. The pump is weak and the pressure does not increase. Later someone replaces the pump, but is unaware of the high relief valve setting, they run the machine with the new pump and the first time they stall the hydraulics, the new pump breaks. To prevent this, always decrease the relief setting before starting up a machine with a new pump, then install a gauge and adjust the relief pressure up to the correct amount. We have also seen a rag cause the relief valve to malfunction. This happened during gear pump installation. The rag was left in the discharge hose and when the machine started, the oil forced the rag up against the relief valve, sealing it off and not allowing the oil to escape through it once the hydrualics were stalled.

One of the most common questions we receive from customers is whether or not a gear pump can be repaired/rebuilt. The short answer is “no”.

The reason is that the components that tend to wear in these pumps are the gears and the pump bodies. These components cannot be repaired they must be replaced with new parts. Unfortunately these component parts tend to add up to costs higher than replacement of the pump.

A lift pump (gear pump) can be the cause of weak or no lift from the hydraulic cylinders. However, this isn’t the only component in the system that could cause this issue.

A bad cylinder could cause these symptoms. A good way to check this is to raise your bucket and put your pedal in neutral. If the bucket drops it is likely that a cylinder is an issue.

If the gear pump is causing the problem it is due to internal leakage. Some of the flow is leaking back through the pump to the reservoir. These issues usually are more noticeable at lower engine revolutions per minute (RPM). When running at higher RPMs the problems may appear to have gone away or are at a minimum.

The relief valve cartridge is another item in the system that can cause problems. If the cartridge itself is worn or bad it will usually exhibit similar issues as the gear pump. Problems will be more apparent at lower RPMs.

If RPM is not affecting the problem it could be the adjustment of the relief valve. If the spring has weakened it may not be allowing the pressure to raise as high as it should. Putting a gauge on your auxiliaries is a good way to check the relief valve setting. Rev up your engine, engage your auxiliaries and see what pressure you get. That pressure is where your relief valve is opening.

Do not adjust the relief valve inward to test if your pump is good. This can result in damage to the gear pump and/or other components in your hydraulic system. When installing a new pump always adjust the relief valve all the way out and adjust it back up to its proper setting using a gauge.

Even if you’ve never been on a farm or at a construction site, you may have heard of people talking about a skid steer or a skid loader before. So, what exactly is a skid steer, and what does it do? You’ve come to the right place for that information. Here at Loader Parts Source, our employees have been working with skid steer parts, providing service and advice, for over 50 years combined.

What is a skid steer?
Skid steers are machines equipped with tools designed to assist in labor and operate using differential steering. What primarily makes them different from other heavy equipment is a small size and the movement. Thanks to differential steering, which means the machine turns by moving the wheels or tracks on each side at different speeds, skid steers are capable of completing a zero-radius turn. These differences, along with the various compatible attachments, make the skid steer very proficient for people in the agriculture, construction, and landscaping industries.

How Does a Skid Steer Work?
No matter what attachments you might add to a skid steer, it uses the same mechanisms to operate. Skid steers use hydraulic power to move both the wheels/tracks and the attachments. Gear pumps are the power source for your attachments. The type of gear pump required mainly depends on your machine’s options, such as attachments. For your movement, drive pumps manage the flow of hydraulic fluid that enables the drive motors to give specific levels of power to either side.

Most skid steers use a lever system to determine how much hydraulic pressure is applied. If you want to go forward, you would push both handheld levers forward. If you want to turn to the right, pull back the right level and push forward the left and vice versa for the left. Foot pedals are usually used to control the lift and tilt of the attachments. Be sure to read the safety manual and get proper training before trying to operate a skid steer.

Where did they come from?
There are many brands of skid steers, but the Bobcat Company claims to be the first-ever model. In 1962, the first Bobcat-branded skid steer was released with 15.5 horsepower and an 1100 lb. capacity but the idea for the machine was first implemented in 1957. While looking for a way to clean turkey barns faster, brothers Louis and Cyril Keller created a model with 6 horsepower. They made seven machines that year and were hired the following year by the Melroe Manufacturing Company. Other equipment companies, such as Caterpillar and John Deere, eventually caught on, creating their own models of the skid steer.

How much does it cost?
When looking for a skid steer to purchase, you should consider what you are going to primarily use the machine for and what stage your business is in. If you are newer to the business or looking for cheaper options, your best bet is to buy used with more logged hours as these machines will likely be several thousand dollars cheaper. They may need maintenance and should be carefully inspected before purchasing. Buying new might be recommended for people with a large existing fleet that has a schedule of regular business. Whatever decision is right for you, you will be looking at spending between $20,000 and $80,000 for a machine.

Here at Loader Parts Source, we are always happy to serve skid steer operators with fast, easy, and fair parts as well as advice. If you buy a used machine, be sure to browse our inventory when the time for maintenance comes around. Our service representatives are available if you have any questions about your skid steer, whether it is troubleshooting an ongoing issue or if you need advice on an installation. We also have a database of tech tip videos for free.

Many customers have a hard time determining the direction of the valve plates they’ve purchased and frequently ask “How do I determine the direction?”

Pump valve plates are unidirectional, and therefore they need to be matched up to the correct input direction of the pump. The metering slots on the valve plate indicate the plate’s direction.

Looking at the plates, the side with the “tail marks” (metering slots) or hash marks need to be facing upward. These tail marks indicate the valve plate direction.
When the plate is laid down with the metering slots facing upward, if the tail marks are on the right-hand side, then it is a right-hand valve plate.

When the plate is laid down with the metering slots facing upward, if the tail marks are on the left-hand side, then it is a left-hand valve plate.

On some valve plates, however, there are lines on all sides. If that is the case then you look at the thicker line that is located at the top of the plate. 

Some of our customers have asked about the similarities and differences between our Takeuchi replacement pumps and the originals.

The original pump has internal charge and case drain ports, which are specific features available to only Takeuchi. When housings wear out and they typically do in this specific application, it’s possible to rebuild but it’s going to be hard and expensive to do. This is why we offer this new replacement option. It is the same brand and makes, however, we were unable to buy special internal parts because they are proprietary to Takeuchi. We added an external case drain and charge lines.

On the original, the top sits under the seat and has drive hoses and the case drain hose. The newer replacement is identical, the only difference is the connection between the two pumps. It comes out of the box ready to install into your machine.

Looking at the bottom of the pump on the original, it has plugs and an elbow pointing down. We weren’t able to directly simulate that, but with the replacement, we have tied in the charge pressure and also have a fitting downward. It might be an inch off but it is the same metric fitting, therefore you can hook the original hoses up to the replacement pump.

We have installed several of these and have found that they fit very well, there is no need to move anything or make any changes. You’ll never know the difference once it is installed into the machine.